PowerPole bulkhead #1

One day, I decided I wanted to make Anderson PowerPoles waterproof, and discovered that they fit perfectly in a Bulgin SA3230 screw terminal insert, after I cut the PowerPoles short and Dremeled them down a little. I simply popped out the pins from the insert, expanded the holes for the positive / negative cords, and lined up the groove on the side of the red PowerPole to match up with the key running down the side of the insert. I added a little RTV silicone inside the PowerPole bulkhead for good measure.

Recently, I replaced the relatively stiff 10 gauge PVC "zip cord" I had been using with far superior flexible silicone cable that I imported from China. The stuff is simply amazing, and feels like licorice. I also replaced the standard PowerPoles with ultrasonically welded PowerPoles. These don't split apart, as regular ones sometimes do. They also eliminate the need for roll pins and allow you to use retention clips.

$23.95 (PowerPole bulkhead with 2 feet of 10 gauge silicone cable)

PowerPole bulkhead #2

See the 200C (~400F) rating on the cable? No, it's not a misprint. :-) It can pass a LOT more amps than standard PVC-coated wires.

PowerPole bulkhead #3

Here's the back side of the PowerPole bulkhead. I cut off a couple of the plastic fins that used to partition the screw terminals; this separates the power cords nicely, and gives them some strain relief.

PowerPole connector #1

Here's the external adapter that mates with the PowerPole bulkhead. When screwed over the bulkhead, this connector prevents the ingress of water, etc. and keeps the adapters together. If you look closely, you can see the yellow cable gland inside the connector that has been tightened around the silicone cables sticking out the back.

$33.95 (PowerPole connector with 6 feet of 10 gauge silicone cable)

PowerPole connector #2

In this side view, you can see the stress relief nut on the back. For additional water protection, I wrapped its threads with Teflon tape.

Modified PS-4 #1

Customized Red-Dee-2 PS-4 PowerPole splitter above the original version. I took two sets of red / black PowerPoles, cut short the reds, crimped bare copper wires into both sets, twisted positive-to-positive and negative-to-negative and separated them with multiple layers of electrical and heat shrink tape. The resulting adapter was zip-tied in the center and bent into an "L" shape for maximum compactness.

Modified PS-4 #2

Different view...

Modified PS-4 #3

This is the version of the PS-4 I mounted in my new 1430 Power Pack.

Modified PS-4 #4

Different view...

12V to 5V adapter

'Nuff said...

Modified KPC3 to Kenwood adapter

This right-angle metal D-sub hood kit was a great addition to my new Radio / Packet Pack because it works in very tight spaces. This pic shows the adapter that connects my Kantronics KPC-3+'s DB9 radio jack to my Kenwood D710A's DIN6 port. I drilled a hole in the adapter and installed a rubber grommet so I could route the cable 180 degrees to the other side of the case.

SO239 bulkhead #1

Here's a UHF female-to-female (SO239) antenna adapter screwed into an IP68-rated (waterproof) Bulgin PX0802 panel mount connector. See it installed, below.

I added an internal o-ring, Dremeled the points down on each SO239 nut (12 points total), placed them on the inside part of each side of the panel mount connector, put RTV silicone around both insides, wrapped Teflon tape around the SO239 "bolt" and screwed it through the panel mount connector. It was a bit of a process, but I'm really happy with the result. Due to the inherently slick nature of the rubber o-rings, plastic and Teflon, the UHF adapter will likely twist in the connector with the torque of a PL259 and cable attached. However, there should be zero axial movement.

$14.95

SO239 bulkhead #2

Front view of the same adapter.

SO239 bulkhead #3

Side view, with cap.

Antenna jack

The UHF female adapter / waterproof bulkhead installed on my 1150 Radio + Packet Pack.

N Female bulkhead

Here's an N female-to-female antenna adapter inside another panel mount connector.

As I did with the UHF bulkhead, I added an internal o-ring, Dremeled the points down on each NF nut (12 points total), placed them on the inside part of each side of the panel mount connector, put RTV silicone around both insides, wrapped Teflon tape around the NF "bolt" and screwed it through the panel mount connector.

$17.25

Solar SUV #1

I've built versatile battery packs for years, so I figured it was time to investigate alternate ways of charging them. Living in Oregon, I was very skeptical at first that a solar panel would be any good -- especially in winter. After more consideration, I decided that I was thinking about it the wrong way.

Solar shouldn't be dismissed just because it may be less efficient and more expensive than conventional sources of power. Unfortunately, many people assume that they will always be able to plug into a wall socket somewhere. Good luck with that when the power goes out during an emergency, or if you simply want to go camping off the beaten trail.

As I mentioned in my 1150 Radio + Packet Pack project, having more options, especially in a disaster, is always better... Solar is just another tool in your toolbox; another way to get power if other options are not available. It is NOT able to replace all the power you likely use every day at home, but it can be enough to help you stay alive until you find AC power again. It can also be used in small every day applications. Just don't expect it to run your hair dryer.

When looking for solar panels, I made a laundry list of several must-have features: 1) The panels had to be light; 2) they had to be flexible; 3) they had to be waterproof; 4) they had to work in low / poor light; 5) they had to be easily "paralleleled" to allow more current. The ones made by PowerFilm fit the bill, and then some. They are amazingly durable. Check out this video and see for yourself. I was so impressed by their panels, I became a PowerFilm dealer so I could get a better price on them.

The picture above shows two 21 watt rollable panels wired in parallel (42W total) on the top of my truck, held down by super strong neodymium magnets. They've been up there since December 2010 without any problems. During peak sun, I should be able to squeeze about 2.7 amps of current out of them to charge my battery packs. They weigh only 1.42lbs each, and are 60.75 x 14.5 inches (~60.75 x 28 inches for the two shown).

Other than buying them from me, the lowest price you'll find these 21W panels is $270 each. Look around, then come back here. As a dealer, I must order six at a time in order to receive a discount -- so, I can't afford to accept orders from customers who want to buy only one of them. If you're willing to order two or more, I can sell them to you for $240 apiece. I rarely keep stock on hand that isn't already earmarked for a customer, so orders might take a couple weeks to fill. Please e-mail me before placing one.

$495 (two 21W rollable solar panels, plus one paralleling cable; also includes 15ft extension cable with ring terminals and DC socket adapter)

Solar SUV #2

The panels are practically invisible to pedestrians and most vehicles.

Solar SUV #3

Here's one of the magnets I use to hold down the panels. While a 31lb pull force may not sound like a lot, at only 1" x 1" x 3/8", it's pretty impressive. Try lifting a 30lb weight with just two fingers sometime.

It has more than enough pull to keep the panels from moving -- even at highway speeds.

0.90A

How's almost 1 amp of charge -- in the RAIN? Yes, I got the windshield fixed. :-)

1.23A

Or 1.23 amps shortly afterward, with 100% cloud cover?